Luxury barge sailing on the Canal Du Midi: let yourself be carried away by the current in the south of France

A slow and easy luxury barge cruise on the Canal du Midi in the south of France is simply pure fun and the ultimate in relaxation. Delicious wines from local vineyards, gourmet cuisine prepared by the onboard chef, and visits to quaint villages along the way will whisk you back to a slower world, far from the pressures of modern life.

The Canal du Midi is an impressive and majestic waterway that has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by Pierre Paul Riquet during the reign of Louis XIV, it was completed in 1681. Some 12,000 workers worked on it for almost 15 years using only manual labor. Its purpose was to allow the shipment of materials between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, as a shortcut to a long journey around Spain and Portugal through the Strait of Gibraltar. Today there is practically no freight transport on the canal. Instead, it is used almost exclusively by pleasure boats and luxury hotel-barges.

The canal is an astonishing work of hydraulic engineering, and as it meanders lazily through vast expanses of vineyards and olive groves, it is one of the most beautiful and tranquil waterways in France.

Several week-long cruises along the canal are possible, but one of the most common itineraries runs between Carcassonne and Marseillan on the Bassin de Thau.

Here are just a few highlights and first-hand impressions of this idyllic trip:

carcassonne, the largest medieval fortified city in Europe, is an impressive sight with its 52 towers and massive walls that defend the entire city. It completely dominates the horizon as you get closer, and its massiveness does not disappoint when you cross the gate of the drawbridge. It’s huge, it’s medieval, and it also attracts a lot of tourists. However, as a World Heritage Site, it is a “must see” and well worth the trip.

clovers and Marseilles They are two small and picturesque towns on the outskirts of Carcassonne. There, you’ll discover the “characteristic aspect” of the Canal du Midi: tall rows of huge plane trees lining both banks, arching high above the water, shading all the way down to the deep blue sea. Imagine floating down the nave of a leafy Gothic cathedral for miles and miles! Also notable is the ubiquitous towpath where horses used to pull cargo barges and where you can now leisurely walk, jog or cycle.

the somail (near Narbonne). This is another quaint little hamlet with a pretty humpbacked stone bridge over the canal, next to a hundred-year-old ivy-covered chapel. This small bridge called the Pont Neuf (New Bridge), although it was built in 1773, is another “signature” feature that marks the entire course of the canal. There are many more bridges like this on the way to the Mediterranean. They are all very small, which makes you wonder how the bulky barges manage to fit under them, with inches to spare in some cases. Most of the bridges are made of stone and many have the same typical arched style.

Malpas Tunnel (near Beziers). This small tunnel, set in a rustic and picturesque setting, is the first in the world to have a man-made channel running through it. Recreational boaters love to hear the dizzying echoes of your whoops and whoops as they go through it.

Fonseranes Locks (near Beziers). The Ecluses de Fonséranes are a series of nine locks built end to end, changing the level of the canal by 82 feet in height over a distance of only 1,000 feet. (Only seven of the locks are in use today.) These locks, also known as “step locks”, encompass eight basins designed in an oval shape typical of the Canal du Midi. It is a popular destination for local visitors who enjoy watching the ships float up and down through the system.

Béziers canal bridge. A short distance from Fonséranes, the Canal du Midi crosses the Orb River. This 800 foot long aqueduct/bridge was built in 1857 to avoid the problems of connecting the canal to the wild and unpredictable river below. It’s an amazing sight: a man-made canal flowing peacefully in a gigantic aqueduct over a natural river! A leisurely walk along the towpath, looking down the river, watching the boats glide by and admiring the imposing Cathedral of St Nazaire de Beziers on the top of the hill overlooking the city is not to be missed here.

Thau Basin (near Set). Of course, there are many more interesting places along the Canal du Midi: the medieval hilltop village of Minerve, the Cistercian Abbey of Fontfroide and the pre-Roman settlement of Oppidum d’Ensérune, just to name a few. But the journey must come to an end. The Canal du Midi flows into the Bassin de Thau, between Agde and Sète. There, the narrow canal that winds through the rolling Languedoc countryside empties into a saltwater lake. Suddenly everything changes. There are no more plane trees and the pretty little stone bridges have disappeared. In Agde you can smell the salt in the air and the Mediterranean breeze blows stronger. At this point, you leave the essence of the Canal du Midi behind. The Bassin de Thau is the beginning of a different world: the vast and wild delta of the Rhone River known as the Camargue… Another fascinating exploration for a future trip!

From March to October, a small army cruises up and down the Canal du Midi. These boats can be as small as self-propelled recreational boats where you can cook your own food and move around on your own schedule. But the best way to experience the region and enjoy the perfect peace and relaxation is a cruise on a larger hotel-barge. “Pampered” is the word that comes to mind. On these luxury cruises, all you have to do, starting with your welcome cocktail upon boarding on day one, is kick back, relax and let yourself go.